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engine bay work

Foxman

Foxman

Well-Known Member
Started my engine bay smoothing... found some rust... yay!....
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has anyone read up on this... from the threads i looked at it looks like its is being bondoed for smoothness.. i cant see how that would hold up very well any ideas for when the welding is done?
 
M

Mustangcwo

Guest
You are tackling this in the right direction. I wish I would have welded all the holes shut on my stang while I have the motor and fuel system out.

Only suggestion I have is to route all the wiring through the fender well to clean up the look even further. Not really that difficult and the rewards are tremendous.

Looking GOOD :rock:
 
Foxman

Foxman

Well-Known Member
Mustangcwo said:
You are tackling this in the right direction. I wish I would have welded all the holes shut on my stang while I have the motor and fuel system out.

Only suggestion I have is to route all the wiring through the fender well to clean up the look even further. Not really that difficult and the rewards are tremendous.

Looking GOOD :rock:
Click to expand...

you mean like this....
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one step a head of you...lol
 
5

510z

Well-Known Member
body filler will work just fine as long as its done and prepped correctly, if you do a good job in the beginning working the metal you can use a poly putty like this http://www.kolorhouse.com/fbe416.html , get some decent blocks don't finger sand it, get a decent 2 part primer, prime it, block it down again then reprime, wet block it prep and paint.
 
Foxman

Foxman

Well-Known Member
Renegade said:
good job andy, i hope your tacking around that panel and not trying to weld seams though
Click to expand...

im doing small beads... being the that the metal is 20 gauge that im welding in and the factory is 16 gauge... 110volt welder on its lowest setting and wire speed it makes it really easy to not burn through.. or distort the metal
 
Gibs

Gibs

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Global Moderator
Looks good. Make sure you coat all that fresh metal with an anti rust substance. I used OSPHO that I got from ACE/True Value for about 12 dollars. That stuff is easy to use, but it stinks so use it outside or use a respirator. It coats the metal with a Phosphate coating and wont let rust start up. Then just put the coating of your choice over the Ospho.

I goto Autobody store forums for rust/metal repair info.


Gib
 
Foxman

Foxman

Well-Known Member
thanks for the info.. looking for a good rust converter... the driver side frame rail has rust in side the rail i need to take care of.. need to cut the top of the rail off and treat the rust in there as well... such a tight spot i want to just converter the rust instead of trying to sand it away
 
Gibs

Gibs

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Global Moderator
I think eastwood makes a wand for a sprayer that comes with little rubber grommets that you use after you drill a hole the rubber things seal it up. It allows access to panels that have no openings....aka fram rails and rockers.

The Ospho will convert the rust to a black substance or whatever. It is much cheaper than some other stuff. Len from the Autobody store swears by Zro Rust as do many others on there....it works good from what I have read.

If you have any questions about rust, just hit me up, my whole classic was rust and I got rid of all of it....LOL



Gib
 
Foxman

Foxman

Well-Known Member
A couple of you guys were asking how the fox was going at the last meet... thought i would post some more resent pics

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only get about a hour a week on it if that... progess is there but not as much as i would like... alo of sanding in my future
 
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