• Hello there guest and welcome to our forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Team Z Motorsports double adjustable lower control arm install

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
Well, It took me about 45min. The car was already on jackstands. I don't have a track locator so when the rear end moved after unbolting the first control arm the double adjustability came in handy right from the get go!

I bolted the front in and put the spring (Todd's old 88gt springs) on top. Then I jacked up the control arm into the axle housing (using a rag on the jack of course. Didn't want to scratch these new puppies :)). Once in the housing I adjusted the control arms out until the bolt hole lined up. After I put the bolts in I adjusted the control arms back in to all the way which is right at 17.5" which is stock length. I repeated that procedure on the other side. I did still have to put a screw driver in the hole and persuade it to line up a bit, but it was a piece of cake!
In the first pic you will see the spring to the left with more of a shine is the 88GT spring. The spring on the right is the SN95 spring. The 88Gt spring is slightly taller. I feel really good about this install and I know deep down that it's going to work out for the better. It just feels right! :rock:


Note: I left everything loose until the suspension is loaded. Then I'll go back and tighten everything down.

88Gt spring left / 95 SN95 spring right

DSCN0574.jpg


DSCN0575.jpg


DSCN0576.jpg


DSCN0577.jpg


DSCN0579.jpg


DSCN0578.jpg
 
M

Mustangcwo

Guest
Those springs didn't look so good when I gave them to you. I'll be sending a bill in the mail...:rofl:. Looks good Bobby and you and I both need to get our boxes welded up!!!
 
M

Mustangcwo

Guest
Adding the two extra bars and triangulating the rear is the course of action that I'm planning to take. I am too worried about messing something up during the welding process and I can complete the work on my own. Once again I can avoid a shop.

I couldn't see a weld on the lower section of your uppers...:nonono:

Also, there is a reinforcement plate that usually goes between the subframe connectors and the torque box on the lowers.
 

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
I couldn't see a weld on the lower section of your uppers...:nonono:

Also, there is a reinforcement plate that usually goes between the subframe connectors and the torque box on the lowers.

It's not pretty, but it will hold.

UPPERS
DSCN0581.jpg


DSCN0580.jpg


LOWERS
DSCN0530.jpg


DSCN0531.jpg
 
M

Mustangcwo

Guest
I wish mine looked that good. I dont have any welds...just the Ford SPOT welds...:nonono:
 

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
I wish mine looked that good. I dont have any welds...just the Ford SPOT welds...:nonono:

If I end up pulling the rear out and dropping the gas tank in favor of a fuel cell, I will go back in and clean it up a little.

You can barrow my welder if you want to add some weld :).
 

Mach1Marauder

Well-Known Member
If I get around her to pull my rear for a check and prolly a rebuils with a gear change, I'll show ya what welded boxes REALLY look like!:rock:

Do you guys have a machinist and a "turd chaser" among yourselves?
I'm sure you guys could get some jigs and checker bars made up for fox, new edge and 05 up rear widths made up.

If not, the "stitch method" works pretty dang well.
Gutted rear housing
Not loaded or supporting the vehicle
Small weld @ 6 o'cklock
Small weld @12 o'clock
Small weld @3
Small weld @9

Some guys let it cool at that point.
I just keep going until they connect.......it keeps the cast iron of the housing at a better temp.
 

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
If I get around her to pull my rear for a check and prolly a rebuils with a gear change, I'll show ya what welded boxes REALLY look like!:rock:

Do you guys have a machinist and a "turd chaser" among yourselves?
I'm sure you guys could get some jigs and checker bars made up for fox, new edge and 05 up rear widths made up.

If not, the "stitch method" works pretty dang well.
Gutted rear housing
Not loaded or supporting the vehicle
Small weld @ 6 o'cklock
Small weld @12 o'clock
Small weld @3
Small weld @9

Some guys let it cool at that point.
I just keep going until they connect.......it keeps the cast iron of the housing at a better temp.

I work for Dyncorp Int. We are a GSE rework facility. A welder friend that I work with is going to help me make a jig. We may have some 4340 rod lying around and the machinists that I work with are cool as hell. If I could get them to machine the parts needed to keep the housing ends straight it should work out nicely.
 
M

Mustangcwo

Guest
I work for Dyncorp Int. We are a GSE rework facility. A welder friend that I work with is going to help me make a jig. We may have some 4340 rod lying around and the machinists that I work with are cool as hell. If I could get them to machine the parts needed to keep the housing ends straight it should work out nicely.

If you get the jig made...my friend...let me have it before you install it. My machinist and welders will make me one and we'll both by very happy :rock:
 
Top