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barona 25 sep 09

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
oh screw it.... I will go! You guys know it is suppose to be 100+ degrees up there on friday? I will bring the eggs for frying on my supercharger, might as well put it to good use. Because it isn't helping my ET's.

Orange....you will help me set up my car right?

I will follow your advice, unlike other people....cough cough :target:

spd, I'm not sure what advice I could give you. Maybe explain the issue that you are having. I know you had a bad night last time out. I know we mentioned the one wheel peel. Other than that, if you are willing to remove your front sway bar that might make a difference.

Not sure what else to tell you. What shocks and struts do you have?
 

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
Eric, I've been thinking about your car and how it reacts on launch. What are your front struts set at?
 

ears

Well-Known Member
hhhmmmm,,, im definately gonna be there!!! but a crazy thouhgt jsut hit me!!! i wonder what i could tear up in the wifes car???????? hhhmmmmhhhmmm!!!!!!
 

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
(2) loose but not that crazy....
OK after you adjust the coil overs UP, it will help even out the car as well as put more tension on the springs. More tension= more stored energy, which means the car should lift quicker. I want you to keep stiffening the front struts until the car does not do a nose dive after the initial hook.

When that happens the tires unload and slow the car down or even spin the tires sometimes. I had this same problem with my last car and never knew enough to fix the issue.
 

ears

Well-Known Member
but ive never actually run before,,,, so itll be my first night at the track as a driver!!!!

i guess its better for me to try a few passes on a warrantied 100 hp pony than f shi*t up in my cobra!!! w god knows how much power!!! well at this rate itll stay 0 but well see!!!!LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLO!!!!!!!!
 

02gt

Well-Known Member
OK after you adjust the coil overs UP, it will help even out the car as well as put more tension on the springs. More tension= more stored energy, which means the car should lift quicker. I want you to keep stiffening the front struts until the car does not do a nose dive after the initial hook.

When that happens the tires unload and slow the car down or even spin the tires sometimes. I had this same problem with my last car and never knew enough to fix the issue.

ok that makes alot of sense, i'll try with the 3 then maybe even going to 4....
 

beejay31000

BULLWINKLE
i cant check the timing.....dont have a light. and i dont remember where i got 35, but i just checked and 36-40 is stock, so that should be safe right. no i dont have the schrader valve anymore. the gauge replaced the schrader valve.
 

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
I thought you had an adjustable FPR? Isn't there a place for the gauge on it? Set the FP @ 38lbs with vacuum disconnected. Make sure you have plugs for the intake and the FPR. Come and get my timing light or I can bring it to you tomorrow @ El Cajon. Did you mark your balancer yet? Lets go, lets go, lets go!!!!!
 

beejay31000

BULLWINKLE
no, i havent gotten plugs for the vaccum lines, and there isnt anywhere on my fpr for a gauge. it looks stock, but you can adjust the screw up or down. i will get the plugs for it tho. i go to the gym at 11 everyday, i will call you tomorrow, and maybe i can get the light. im plannin on doing everything on friday before i go to the track tho.
 

spdpilot

Well-Known Member
spd, I'm not sure what advice I could give you. Maybe explain the issue that you are having. I know you had a bad night last time out. I know we mentioned the one wheel peel. Other than that, if you are willing to remove your front sway bar that might make a difference.

Not sure what else to tell you. What shocks and struts do you have?

Thanks Orange! I am in it for the long hall and there is no silver bullet. Most of the cars I have run in recent years have been purpose built race cars and I do know the fundamentals, but it has been several years since I run a "street" car with a dual purpose of track use. I still want to drive this car on street but I don't drive that far in it, so I can more specifically build the car up for drag racing and keep it streetable.

Believe it or not, that is almost harder to do then just building a race car. Most people just build the race car, then do what they need to make street legal. I am going the other direction.

You seem to have a good eye for seeing what is wrong. This is where I could really use your experience. There is no silver bullet for this, and it will just take me some time. So, I just want you to feel free to speak up if you see things going on that are hurting me. You won't offend me. I want to hear it.

I don't know if I will get it all done or not before this friday. But, in general I am going to work harder this time at doing what I know works. Removing spare tire, back seat, front sway bar (which I will put back on), and setting the Tokico shocks to the #2 setting (maybe you have imput on this).

Of more concern is the one wheel peel. If it is "sometimes" only locking in one wheel on launch, how bad do you think this is hurting me? I know sometimes both wheels are gabbing, but other times, i know there is slip.
 

blackstallion06

Everrett Wa. Soon to be St. Louis MO.
Donator
Hey guys out here on the ship cruising through the threads. Put a post up how you guys are all running now. I cant wait to get back. We are Tax free now and making good money. Have fun!
 

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
Tokico shocks to the #2 setting (maybe you have imput on this).

Yes. My input would be to set the fronts and the rears to 0. This will give you maximum weight transfer that the car is capable of. If it hooks keep increasing the stiffness in the rear shocks until you find what the car likes.

If it hooks and the car does a nose dive after initial launch stiffen the front struts until it rises fast and falls slow.

I will most likely be there, so I will watch what the car does on your launches. It is very important to find a launch rpm that works before fumbling around with the strut & shock settings. No sense in changing them and then changing the launch rpm.
 

spdpilot

Well-Known Member
Yes. My input would be to set the fronts and the rears to 0. This will give you maximum weight transfer that the car is capable of. If it hooks keep increasing the stiffness in the rear shocks until you find what the car likes.

If it hooks and the car does a nose dive after initial launch stiffen the front struts until it rises fast and falls slow.

I will most likely be there, so I will watch what the car does on your launches. It is very important to find a launch rpm that works before fumbling around with the strut & shock settings. No sense in changing them and then changing the launch rpm.

Ok...I will try 0 for the shocks. I was launching at about 4200-4500rpm and shifting at about 6500 (6800 redline). With those 28" tires, i am thinking I am going to bump the launch to about 5000rpm. I was having a hard time keeping my eye on the tach (use to racing an auto), keep it from rolling, and watching the tree all at the same time. So, I am putting in a shift light tonight and I want to wire in a second shift light at some point. I was thinking about using the second shift light set to my launch rpm with a different color so when it is on, I know I am where I need to be. Anyways....to much information I am sure and maybe I am crazy to think about such things.

Thanks for help
 

beejay31000

BULLWINKLE
where should i be launching. i know on the DR's i was launching at 4000 and they were gripping immediately. almost killed my car. should i try slipping the clutch at all?

lol, bobby, your our resident racing expert.
 
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