pistons???

[LaughingGT]

hey guy iv been gone for a wile and had a little time on the boat but i was wondering whats the difference between dish and flat pistons ??? is there anything to gain form either one of them

 

[Superstang21]

The difference is compression. Your engines compression will be higher with a flat top. These pistons are normally used in naturally aspirated engines. The dished piston will give you a lower compression ratio which is suitable for blower and nitrous applications. Hope that answers you question..

 

[orange395w]

Not trying to step on any toes here, but N20 works better with higher compression ratios while blowers and turbos need the lower compression.

 

[Superstang21]

Damn it Orange!! Can ya wait till I at least have my steel toe boots on LOL! Im sure he's right Dakota. But you you get the idea...

 

[orange395w]

Sorry . The compression explanation is spot on though.

 

[LaughingGT]

well thanks for the info so dose my stock engine have flat or dish pistons ??

 

[Mustangcwo]

Your stock engine is N/A and therfore you have flat pistons.

 

[02gt]

yeah if you run high comperssion and get new cams you would have to have the pistons notched to accomidate the extra lobe hight.

 

[Foxman]

I would look into what pistons you have.... just because it is stock doesn't mean they are flat tops... they could very well be dished pistons.... depends on what the Manufacturer decided to put in the motor.... they could have made a high compression ratio buy having a small combustion chamber cylinder head......

Oh and Nitrous loves HIGH compression!!!!!!!!!!

 

[orange395w]

This is a picture of 1WKDRSH's (06') blown engine. Notice the top veiw of the piston all the way to the right. You can clearly see that the piston is dished. Just curious as to what you plan to do??

 

[LaughingGT]

i was jsut wondering i was wanting to go forged internals and wanting to get the same kind of pistons i have stock so i dont change the compression to much and also if i did need to change it for application of a S/C or turbo i was thinking of NOS but i think i will just hold off till i get one of the two. i was also wanting to put some new cams in it to so i needed to know if i was going to need to make mods for that as well

 

[LaughingGT]

looking into stuff like this
http://www.blowbyracing.com/bbrst2camkit.html

http://www.blowbyracing.com/ppp-46-rotating.html

 

[DrunkFatguy]

Your stock Piston CC is -6 which brings you to a c/r with 50 cc Combustion chambers of around 9.5/1. The stock stuff can handle the Whipple/KB kits pretty well if respected( no Flogging the throttle at EVERY stoplight or Dragstrip every weekend) but it's still a ticking time bomb waiting to go off even with a solid tune. I would go with a forged and BALANCED assembly, and the correct pistons of course depending if you are going to start with a fresh block or bore your existing block out .030. One other thing to remember is that the forged cranks are 8 bolt so if you are manual you need a new flywheel or flexplate if auto(get new bolts also). If you do go with the cams, make sure you get the S/C, nitrous grind or stage 2's as they are commonly refered to. be aware your grind you pick may need phaser lockouts to keep the cam gear from vibrating as you will most probably need heavier valve springs as well. Just my .02 cents

 

[Foxman]

WOW..... to much boost not enough strength lol!

I though the 05 and up pistons were dished just didnt want to say for sure

 

[Renegade]

Dakota if your looking into internals and want very good quality and not pay an arm and a leg for them im gunna recommend D.S.S.

 

[Foxman]

d.s.s. not an arm and a leg???? where do you buy from?? they want 2 grand for a stage 20 block...

 

[LaughingGT]

DSS ??? what brand is that

 

[Renegade]

D.S.S. Is the brand, and ya there stage 20 block is pricey as hell but there other stuff like the stage 10 mod block (like I'm buying) is a pretty good price and is all most people need, and there forged internals are priced better than most places I've looked (like sean hyland) and D.S.S. Has a pretty good reputation from what I've heard

 

[LaughingGT]

Your stock Piston CC is -6 which brings you to a c/r with 50 cc Combustion chambers of around 9.5/1. The stock stuff can handle the Whipple/KB kits pretty well if respected( no Flogging the throttle at EVERY stoplight or Dragstrip every weekend) but it's still a ticking time bomb waiting to go off even with a solid tune. I would go with a forged and BALANCED assembly, and the correct pistons of course depending if you are going to start with a fresh block or bore your existing block out .030. One other thing to remember is that the forged cranks are 8 bolt so if you are manual you need a new flywheel or flexplate if auto(get new bolts also). If you do go with the cams, make sure you get the S/C, nitrous grind or stage 2's as they are commonly refered to. be aware your grind you pick may need phaser lockouts to keep the cam gear from vibrating as you will most probably need heavier valve springs as well. Just my .02 cents

well with thats cam kit it has the lockout and springs with it so its not to bad of a price a 950.00 and for the forged R/A i might as well bore it out to a 5.0 conversion with this kit http://www.blowbyracing.com/46stto302roa.html

 

[DrunkFatguy]

That's almost Identical to what I have, Kellogg crank, Manley H-beams, Pistons etc.. except I used a new Ford racing block. There's No replacement for Displacement!!