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Some pics of my Clutch install

atlblue98gt

atlblue98gt

Greer, SC
the old clutch before it came off.
SDC11148.JPG

the clutch and flywheel after i removed them
SDC11151.JPG

The tranny is out!
SDC11149.JPG

New clutch awaiting install.
SDC11150.JPG
 
M

Mustangcwo

Guest
Yep, that clutch has seen it's better days. Good luck with the install.
 
atlblue98gt

atlblue98gt

Greer, SC
My stock flywheel on left, and 03 cobra flywheel on right.
SDC11159.JPG

Closer look at 03 cobra, aluminum flywheel
SDC11161.JPG

the clutch i chose to replace it with. I got it for $100 thanks to Boostedmach of wickedstangs for the greatest deal.
SDC11162.JPG
 
atlblue98gt

atlblue98gt

Greer, SC
atlblue98gt said:
My stock flywheel on left, and 03 cobra flywheel on right.
SDC11159.JPG

which one should I use? I heard the heavier one will help me off the line at the strip on slicks. But also heard that lighter is always better. The aluminum is almost half the weight of the stock one.
Click to expand...
 
atlblue98gt

atlblue98gt

Greer, SC
Found this article.

In drag racing, that extra stored energy in the flywheel at a stop is put into your tires as soon as the clutch is dropped causing more force/power driving your car as it leaves the line. As your car moves down the track and rpms increase, the energy is transferred back and forth from the flywheel to the tires as rpms increase and then decrease (as you shift). Finally, when you cross the traps, rpms at the top of their powerband, the stored energy in the flywheel did not get put to good use. So, the advantage after you leave the line is to the lighter aluminum flywheel. Does it make up for the Iron one? Possibly. The longer the track, the more likely. However, will the difference be significant enough to justify the extra expenditure? Not to me."

"we lost like .20 on our 60 foot times with an alum flywheel. its the initial shock the torque ripping the tires is what was different and in turn they say about every .10 in the 60 foot is about .15 tenths in the quarter. i find this to be a close fact went from 11.50-11.55 to 11.68-11.71 in the quarter i dont remember mph."

"I have dyno tested several different flywheel and clutch combinations. I was part of the article for MM&FF that Robin mentioned over on HC50. If you can find that, theres alot of good info in there. Since then I have done some prototype testing for another clutch manufacturer. Believe me when I tell you, 9lbs will not make a difference on a chassis dyno doing high gear back to back pulls. If you averaged 5 or 6 pulls, making sure that engine
temp, trans fluid temp, rearend oil temp, air intake
temps, etc.. were the same, I'd suspect you might see 1 horsepower
. Thats doing high gear pulls only. There are other ways of making pulls that will show a greater increase, and give more real world results."
 
wickedstangs

wickedstangs

Chula Vista, CA
Staff member
Administrator
nice should have posted this in the technical section... quit horting all the good info:)
 
atlblue98gt

atlblue98gt

Greer, SC
Don't know if it'll be worth the time diff to go with the aluminum flywheel. I'll prolly like the rev diff. And can do suspension to make up the time diff. But If i stuck with my flywheel and then did suspension, id be that much faster.
So that article is saying ill go from 1.6 60 ft times to 1.8 60 ft times. I ran a 1.68 my last time at the track before my clutch started slippin.
 
xavier296

xavier296

Well-Known Member
If all you do is drag race the car, go with steel. But you will instantly feel an acceleration difference with the lighter flywheel in real world driving. The 4 lb lighter clutch I put in one of the cobras made a huge difference in throttle response.
 
E

ears

Well-Known Member
hell man id think that your clutch might tear up that aluminum fly,,, i really dont know,,, but like that article said,,, its really not that great of a diff,,, so go w the cheaper one,,, what ever is more convenient for ya!!!
 
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