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Vintage Ford Mustang Tech Tips - Beyond The Basics
Mirror, Mirror, on the Door
I'm having a problem obtaining a rearview door mirror with the same screw-mounting locations as my old one, which measures 4131/416-inch screw centers. I purchased new mirrors for both a '65 Mustang and a '67 Falcon, but their centers are 411/44 inches. I have tried wrecking yards to no avail. Can you assist in the procurement of a larger one so I don't have to repair and repaint the door?Dave EdwardsBowling Green, KY
Outside rearview mirrors were not standard equipment on '65 Mustangs, so there is no specific mirror found on all cars. Many mirrors were installed by dealers who generally used the factory-style mirror with 411/44-inch bolt centers, as you mentioned. Of course, many mirrors were installed by owners. With so many variables, it's difficult to determine the mirror you have.
I suggest shopping outside the typical Mustang vendor arena to find a mirror you like with a large enough bolt pattern to suit your needs. Look at other early Mustangs to see what those owners chose. Just be sure to avoid one with another brand's logo, such as the Bow Tie, if you still want other Mustang owners to talk to you!
Gauges and Radiator
I'm the original owner of a '69 Mach 1 with the 351 four-barrel engine, air conditioning, and manual transmission. My first question deals with my gas gauge, which recently stopped registering. Can you tell me the sequence of checks needed to locate the problem and repair a broken gas gauge?
Also, the engine temperature in hot weather gets alarmingly high at low speeds or idling. I'm considering replaceing or recoring the radiator. The current radiator was recored in 1984, but the inside appearance indicates a replacement may be in order. The car has 123,000 miles but only 4,800 since the recore.
Which radiator should I look for, two-, three-, or four-row, and how do I identify the one I have now? The current radiator measures about 24-inches wide and 18-inches tall. Should I go with a recore or a total replacement? Are new radiators generally available? Should I be considering some less costly options before replacing the radiator?Randall BeanVia the Internet
Mustang gauges themselves are generally trouble-free. Most often, an inoperative gauge is usually caused by the sending unit for that gauge. By simply grounding the wire to the sending unit, you can effectively eliminate the sender from the circuit. If the gauge functions without the sending unit, then the sender is obviously the problem. The same holds true for temperature and oil pressure indicators as well.
Disconnect the fuel-gauge wire from the sending unit, and use a jumper to connect the wire to a clean ground. With the ignition key on, the gauge should slowly pulse up to a full scale. The pulsing action, as opposed to a continuous sweep, is normal because the gauges' voltage regulators send out a pulsed 5-volt supply. Should the gauge still not function, the wire from the gauge to the sender has probably been damaged. I doubt the problem is in the dash cluster because a problem with something like the voltage regulator would affect all the gauges, not just the fuel gauge.
The radiator in your Mach 1 is the largest Ford offered. It's listed for all big-block engines with extra cooling needs, like those with air conditioning or a Boss 429 engine. It's a three-row unit that is usually more than adequate. However, any internal deposits will drastically affect performance. Scale and mineral deposits, regardless of mileage, may diminish cooling effectiveness. New replacement radiators are offered by most parts vendors and are relatively inexpensive. Oversize four-row radiators are also available. However, fan-shroud fit may be affected.
Whether or not recoring your existing radiator is viable depends on the condition of the tanks and the cost of the labor to clean the tanks and brackets, along with soldering them to a new core. I'd check with a local radiator shop to get an opinion on the condition of your radiator and an estimate. Either route will correct your cooling situation. However, with a recore, you'll maintain the original date and part numbers for the car, if that's important to you.
Intake Torque
I'm planning to replace the cast-iron intake manifold on my '69 429 Cobra Jet with an aluminum 429 Police Interceptor manifold. Are the torque requirements the same for both manifolds? Also, are there any other problems that you can foresee with swapping these intakes?John YorkGrosse Pointe Woods, MI
The aluminum manifold is a direct bolt-on swap that doesn't require a unique torque sequence. Simply tighten it from the center bolts outward in a cross pattern as you would any other manifold. Double-check the bolt length as there may be a slight difference between the bolt-boss areas in the manifolds. You may have to transfer fittings for the PCV system or vacuum ports. Otherwise, it's a simple swap.
The Police Interceptor manifold is a rare piece and an excellent performer, even by modern standards. You are fortunate to have located one.
Washer and Carb Questions
I have two questions concerning my '67 Mustang convertible with a 289. The car is an early-production model so it has the washer-fluid bag instead of the hard, plastic reservoir. Even when completely full, there's little pressure when trying to spray washer fluid on the windshield. Was this a common problem with the bag system, or do I need to change out other parts of the washer system? If I can improve washer performance, I'd give up a bit of originality to switch to the plastic reservoir.
My second question regards upgrading the carburetor. My Mustang has the two-barrel carb with automatic transmission. I recently converted to dual exhausts and would now like to switch to a four-barrel carb. Recent Mustang Monthly articles say 600 cfm is the most I need for my 289, right? Will the installation of the four-barrel require a new intake manifold or other engine components? Is the Edelbrock 600-cfm four-barrel a good match with a Performer intake? Also, would you recommend switching from points ignition to a PerTronix Ignitor?Doric CapsisEast Williston, NY
I assume you still have the factory '67-'68 washer system that utilizes a rubber bellows pump mounted to the driver's-side floor. Both the bag and plastic reservoir use the same simple bellows pump as opposed to an electric pump, as used on later Mustangs. The reservoir style has no affect on the system operation. Therefore, there is no reason to substitute one for the other.
A clog anywhere in the system will diminish washer operation. Remove all the hoses at both ends and blow compressed air through them to flush out any debris. Also, blow air through the nozzles in the cowl as they typically plug up over the years. The nozzles may need further cleaning with a small wire or needle to completely clear them. Be sure that the reserve bag is not plugged as well. Fluid should run out of the bag as soon as the hose is removed. Occasionally, a bag cannot be cleared when its internal screen is hopelessly rotten, so a new bag must be installed.
If you still experience low output from the cleared system, then the check valve in the pump itself must be cleaned. There is a small ball located in the pump's outlet hose nozzle that acts as a one-way check valve. Run hot water through the pump, and blow air into and around the check valve to clean the ball.
Installation of a four-barrel carburetor requires a new intake manifold. I agree with your choices; a 600-cfm carb is perfect for a street-driven small-block, and the Performer system has been developed by Edelbrock for street applications.
The PerTronix ignition is a simple installation and a welcome addition for eliminating the troublesome contact points.
Send your questions to: Beyond the Basics, c/o Bob Aliberto, P.O. Box 205, Salt Point, NY 12578. E-mail us at mustang.monthly@primedia.com.
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I'm having a problem obtaining a rearview door mirror with the same screw-mounting locations as my old one, which measures 4131/416-inch screw centers. I purchased new mirrors for both a '65 Mustang and a '67 Falcon, but their centers are 411/44 inches. I have tried wrecking yards to no avail. Can you assist in the procurement of a larger one so I don't have to repair and repaint the door?Dave EdwardsBowling Green, KY
Outside rearview mirrors were not standard equipment on '65 Mustangs, so there is no specific mirror found on all cars. Many mirrors were installed by dealers who generally used the factory-style mirror with 411/44-inch bolt centers, as you mentioned. Of course, many mirrors were installed by owners. With so many variables, it's difficult to determine the mirror you have.
I suggest shopping outside the typical Mustang vendor arena to find a mirror you like with a large enough bolt pattern to suit your needs. Look at other early Mustangs to see what those owners chose. Just be sure to avoid one with another brand's logo, such as the Bow Tie, if you still want other Mustang owners to talk to you!
Gauges and Radiator
I'm the original owner of a '69 Mach 1 with the 351 four-barrel engine, air conditioning, and manual transmission. My first question deals with my gas gauge, which recently stopped registering. Can you tell me the sequence of checks needed to locate the problem and repair a broken gas gauge?
Also, the engine temperature in hot weather gets alarmingly high at low speeds or idling. I'm considering replaceing or recoring the radiator. The current radiator was recored in 1984, but the inside appearance indicates a replacement may be in order. The car has 123,000 miles but only 4,800 since the recore.
Which radiator should I look for, two-, three-, or four-row, and how do I identify the one I have now? The current radiator measures about 24-inches wide and 18-inches tall. Should I go with a recore or a total replacement? Are new radiators generally available? Should I be considering some less costly options before replacing the radiator?Randall BeanVia the Internet
Mustang gauges themselves are generally trouble-free. Most often, an inoperative gauge is usually caused by the sending unit for that gauge. By simply grounding the wire to the sending unit, you can effectively eliminate the sender from the circuit. If the gauge functions without the sending unit, then the sender is obviously the problem. The same holds true for temperature and oil pressure indicators as well.
Disconnect the fuel-gauge wire from the sending unit, and use a jumper to connect the wire to a clean ground. With the ignition key on, the gauge should slowly pulse up to a full scale. The pulsing action, as opposed to a continuous sweep, is normal because the gauges' voltage regulators send out a pulsed 5-volt supply. Should the gauge still not function, the wire from the gauge to the sender has probably been damaged. I doubt the problem is in the dash cluster because a problem with something like the voltage regulator would affect all the gauges, not just the fuel gauge.
The radiator in your Mach 1 is the largest Ford offered. It's listed for all big-block engines with extra cooling needs, like those with air conditioning or a Boss 429 engine. It's a three-row unit that is usually more than adequate. However, any internal deposits will drastically affect performance. Scale and mineral deposits, regardless of mileage, may diminish cooling effectiveness. New replacement radiators are offered by most parts vendors and are relatively inexpensive. Oversize four-row radiators are also available. However, fan-shroud fit may be affected.
Whether or not recoring your existing radiator is viable depends on the condition of the tanks and the cost of the labor to clean the tanks and brackets, along with soldering them to a new core. I'd check with a local radiator shop to get an opinion on the condition of your radiator and an estimate. Either route will correct your cooling situation. However, with a recore, you'll maintain the original date and part numbers for the car, if that's important to you.
Intake Torque
I'm planning to replace the cast-iron intake manifold on my '69 429 Cobra Jet with an aluminum 429 Police Interceptor manifold. Are the torque requirements the same for both manifolds? Also, are there any other problems that you can foresee with swapping these intakes?John YorkGrosse Pointe Woods, MI
The aluminum manifold is a direct bolt-on swap that doesn't require a unique torque sequence. Simply tighten it from the center bolts outward in a cross pattern as you would any other manifold. Double-check the bolt length as there may be a slight difference between the bolt-boss areas in the manifolds. You may have to transfer fittings for the PCV system or vacuum ports. Otherwise, it's a simple swap.
The Police Interceptor manifold is a rare piece and an excellent performer, even by modern standards. You are fortunate to have located one.
Washer and Carb Questions
I have two questions concerning my '67 Mustang convertible with a 289. The car is an early-production model so it has the washer-fluid bag instead of the hard, plastic reservoir. Even when completely full, there's little pressure when trying to spray washer fluid on the windshield. Was this a common problem with the bag system, or do I need to change out other parts of the washer system? If I can improve washer performance, I'd give up a bit of originality to switch to the plastic reservoir.
My second question regards upgrading the carburetor. My Mustang has the two-barrel carb with automatic transmission. I recently converted to dual exhausts and would now like to switch to a four-barrel carb. Recent Mustang Monthly articles say 600 cfm is the most I need for my 289, right? Will the installation of the four-barrel require a new intake manifold or other engine components? Is the Edelbrock 600-cfm four-barrel a good match with a Performer intake? Also, would you recommend switching from points ignition to a PerTronix Ignitor?Doric CapsisEast Williston, NY
I assume you still have the factory '67-'68 washer system that utilizes a rubber bellows pump mounted to the driver's-side floor. Both the bag and plastic reservoir use the same simple bellows pump as opposed to an electric pump, as used on later Mustangs. The reservoir style has no affect on the system operation. Therefore, there is no reason to substitute one for the other.
A clog anywhere in the system will diminish washer operation. Remove all the hoses at both ends and blow compressed air through them to flush out any debris. Also, blow air through the nozzles in the cowl as they typically plug up over the years. The nozzles may need further cleaning with a small wire or needle to completely clear them. Be sure that the reserve bag is not plugged as well. Fluid should run out of the bag as soon as the hose is removed. Occasionally, a bag cannot be cleared when its internal screen is hopelessly rotten, so a new bag must be installed.
If you still experience low output from the cleared system, then the check valve in the pump itself must be cleaned. There is a small ball located in the pump's outlet hose nozzle that acts as a one-way check valve. Run hot water through the pump, and blow air into and around the check valve to clean the ball.
Installation of a four-barrel carburetor requires a new intake manifold. I agree with your choices; a 600-cfm carb is perfect for a street-driven small-block, and the Performer system has been developed by Edelbrock for street applications.
The PerTronix ignition is a simple installation and a welcome addition for eliminating the troublesome contact points.
Send your questions to: Beyond the Basics, c/o Bob Aliberto, P.O. Box 205, Salt Point, NY 12578. E-mail us at mustang.monthly@primedia.com.
Photo Gallery: Vintage Ford Mustang Tech Tips - Mustang Monthly
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