*
So you have finally realized*its pointless trying to hook your Mustang at the track with cheap (or expensive) street radials, and you have gone the extra mile to purchase to a decent set of racing slicks. Well, great! The amazing performance and traction slicks have to offer*can bring*a smile to any racer’s face. Once the hammer is dropped, the rush of acceleration travels through your body*and pins*you against the seat. It’s no wonder that more and more people are starting to use them.
At the track you watch professional*racers, and even sportsman racers, launch their cars and make blistering fast*passes*all while making it look so easy your grandmother could do it. In a sense it is that easy, but not without hard work and a general understanding of how a car reacts with these type of tires. Without this knowledge and understanding, you could be put in a tough and potentially dangerous situation, both for yourself and the driver*in the other lane. So what is this information? What is this knowledge? Its simple really. First,*lets refresh*the subject of what a “racing slick”*is.
Inspection: Once you get to the track, if your car doesnt already have the slicks mounted, make sure you mount them before you go*through tech inspection. This will ensure the tech officials are aware you are using racing type tires. Before the lanes open,*inspect the tires to make*positively sure they look safe. Although the officials can be, and most of the time*are, very strict and won’t*allow a poor set of tires to pass -*its more than possible that they*could be*overlooked. So do yourself a*favor and inspect them once more before its time to make a pass. Your safety is never worth compromising.
Air Pressure: After your brief*inspection, or lack of, it’s now a good idea to now set the*”cold”*air pressure. The cold air pressure is basically the manufacture’s suggested*air pressure,with the tire not being used,*or having had time to cool down. This is*generally the most important pressure to set,*as it has an affect on the total air pressure of the tire once it’s in use. In my experience with most*racing type slicks, a good cold pressure to start with is in the neighborhood of 14 psi.*If your unsure, ask a fellow racer or a friend with more experience. This is*also a good time to note that it’s best*that you try to find the most traction with the highest cold pressure setting.*This means there is more air in the tires,*allowing for less rolling resistance, and opening the door for better ETs. Ofcourse, this ultimately depends on the suspension and chassis of your car. Its also a good idea to speak with other drivers and racers to get feedback on track and lane condition. This can dictate your base cold pressure reading. If the track is sticky, and other drivers are able to hook, it may be beneficial to raise your psi from what you originally were going to set it at. Or vise versa with*poor track conditions.
Shake-down Pass: Once you’ve made sure your cold pressure is set,and the rest of your car checks out okay, its time to make*your first shake-down pass. A common mistake amongst many new comers with slicks is,*once they have established*good tire pressure, they try to launch their cars as hard as possible*in effort to improve their ETs. This can lead to a disasterous situation. even*resulting in a crash at worst. So the point of a shake-down pass is to get aqainted*with the car while running these tires. As i said before, slicks have very different handling and traction characteristics, so the car wont “seem” or “drive” the same as you’re used too.*Its best to resist the urge to*’let all hell break loose’ until you have established a physical experience and understanding of your car’s attitude with slicks.
Once you get to the water box, you might feel a little different, or even nervous. Thats natural, this is your first time trying something new.*An official will guide you to the edge of the water patch, and then signal you to*’light em up.’*If the tires are used, depending on how many passes*are on them, you may have to really heat them up. For safety’s sake, lets assume your using a brand new set of slicks.
Burnout: At this point your burnout should be small, mainly just first gear; and you should start your roll out once you feel the tires “bite.”*Contrary to popular belief, you dont need to “smoke” the heck out of a new set of slicks to “break them in.” Just getting them warm enough to activate the compounds will do just fine. Once the compounds are activated, the tire will bite, and thats your signal to let go of the brake. Exessively smoking the tires can actually*overheat them and cause abnormal wear. So try to get in the habbit of*”feeling” for*the bite. A good rule of thumb with most*slicks is, once you start to see smoke in your mirrors, your good to go. This also will dictate how long you keep a set of slicks, and how often you buy new ones.
Launch: With this being a shake-down pass, your launch should be subtle and*soft. All to often, once again, newcomers*are quick to bounce of the rev-limiter and side-step the clutch (or launch hard on a transbrake) only because they know the tires are designed for that -*in a vain effort to dramatically lower their ETs. This really isn’t a good idea and, while most people*end up on the bright side, some dont.*The best case scenario could be something of this sort: the car*launches hard, tracks straight and the only problem*is your pants are slightly wet from the sudden rush of acceleration. The worst case could be many things: including being overwhelmed by the intense acceleration and losing control of the car, especially if it doesn’t go straight. It’s okay to launch a little harder than you’re used too, but take baby steps. Remember, your safety*comes first. The car will launch much differently with the slicks and will actually make the suspension work, so you should be*alert and ready to make*split decisions. *
Once you have staged*and the green bulb lights up, observe how the car feels upon the launch.*Did it hook? Did it spin?*A little of both? Is it going straight? Be aware of*what the car is doing at this*point and remember it well as it will help*with future adjustments. Its safe to*expect that the car*should, and will launch much better with the slicks than it does with street radials using the same launch routine. If all is well, and your headed straight, keep on it. *
The Pass: Now that the car is moving,*and you’re increasing speed, you should be able to recognize the differences the slicks have compared to standard radials. Its a well known fact that slicks can sometimes “shimmy” or “dance” slighty as speed increases. This is due to the soft sidewalls and the overall soft nature of the tires. The best advice that can be given is not to panic and confuse this with attitude changes due to suspension tuning. If your suspension is even remotely dialed in, the stability issues your experiencing are most likely tire related only. Hold the car straight, and try to resist the urge to “correct” if you feel it dance or shimmy from side to side. Many people have “corrected,” only to realize they didnt need to because the car was tracking straight. This*can cause you to lose control and end up in the wall -*or worse, on your lid. If you feel un-easy or think maybe something is truly wrong, abort the pass and coast to the shut-down area. There’s always another chance and another day.
If you decide the pass is going well so far, keep on it. As you reach the top end, and pass the traps, the tires should have settled by now and the car should be stable atleast. In some cases, with taller slicks, you can experience poor stability throughout the entire pass -*even after you lift the throttle, so maintain control at all times and remember to make very little if any corrections, unless you absolutely*need too.
Evaluation: Returning to your space in the pits, go over in your mind and evaluate the entire routine, from staging to the pass, and remember*how the car acted. If the car launched well, but*still spun quite a bit, you could probably drop the tire pressure down slighty and experiement from there. At this point, you should also*check the tire pressure to get a “hot” reading.*This reading, in most cases, is normally at least 2-3 psi higher than your intitial cold pressure reading. Sometimes, it can be as much as 5 or 6 psi above the cold reading. Regardless of the amount take note of it, as it will help you to remember how the tires acted at that pressure. Its also good to know how*much your tires increase in pressure with your*routine so you can judge how much pressure you need in them when they’re cold. If you think the car’s launch capabilities*would benefit from dropping the pressure, do so. Remember to drop the air pressure in small amounts (1-2 psi at a time) and make another pass. Also keep in mind,that as you lower air pressure you also*decrease the tires stability at high speed, which can make the car more of a chore to drive. It’s a sticky trade off, so be careful. Take note also of how the tires are wearing. Are they wearing evenly? Do they seem to be wearing more on the inside than out? If they are not wearing evenly this could be a suspension related problem, and you should adress it before continuing. Always inspect the condition of your tires after each pass to ensure they remain in good working condition.
Be sure to stay above the safe minimum tire*pressure recommended for the tire, which is normally 10 psi but please don’t take our word for it. Stick with what the tire manufacture suggests. You’ll find that the more you experiment, the more you learn, and the faster you go. Your*first time should be a*memorable and safe experience. Good luck!
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© Goblin for Modded Mustangs, 2008. | Permalink | No comment
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*So you have finally realized*its pointless trying to hook your Mustang at the track with cheap (or expensive) street radials, and you have gone the extra mile to purchase to a decent set of racing slicks. Well, great! The amazing performance and traction slicks have to offer*can bring*a smile to any racer’s face. Once the [...]
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So you have finally realized*its pointless trying to hook your Mustang at the track with cheap (or expensive) street radials, and you have gone the extra mile to purchase to a decent set of racing slicks. Well, great! The amazing performance and traction slicks have to offer*can bring*a smile to any racer’s face. Once the hammer is dropped, the rush of acceleration travels through your body*and pins*you against the seat. It’s no wonder that more and more people are starting to use them.
At the track you watch professional*racers, and even sportsman racers, launch their cars and make blistering fast*passes*all while making it look so easy your grandmother could do it. In a sense it is that easy, but not without hard work and a general understanding of how a car reacts with these type of tires. Without this knowledge and understanding, you could be put in a tough and potentially dangerous situation, both for yourself and the driver*in the other lane. So what is this information? What is this knowledge? Its simple really. First,*lets refresh*the subject of what a “racing slick”*is.
“A slick tire (also known as a “racing slick”) is a type of tire that has no tread pattern, used mostly in auto racing. By eliminating any grooves cut into the tread, such tires provide the largest possible contact patch to the road, and maximize traction for any given tire dimension.” - Wikipedia
Basically what this means is these tires are designed to do one thing, and one thing only,*and that is*to hook. With*the crude design of these tires and their*soft sidewalls they have different handling and stability characteristics at high speed when*compared to a regular street radial. So your regular*routine is going to change slighty. Not all tires are created equal, and the same thing can be said about racing type tires. Different tires act different and will require different routines, but the general idea remains the same.*
Inspection: Once you get to the track, if your car doesnt already have the slicks mounted, make sure you mount them before you go*through tech inspection. This will ensure the tech officials are aware you are using racing type tires. Before the lanes open,*inspect the tires to make*positively sure they look safe. Although the officials can be, and most of the time*are, very strict and won’t*allow a poor set of tires to pass -*its more than possible that they*could be*overlooked. So do yourself a*favor and inspect them once more before its time to make a pass. Your safety is never worth compromising.
Air Pressure: After your brief*inspection, or lack of, it’s now a good idea to now set the*”cold”*air pressure. The cold air pressure is basically the manufacture’s suggested*air pressure,with the tire not being used,*or having had time to cool down. This is*generally the most important pressure to set,*as it has an affect on the total air pressure of the tire once it’s in use. In my experience with most*racing type slicks, a good cold pressure to start with is in the neighborhood of 14 psi.*If your unsure, ask a fellow racer or a friend with more experience. This is*also a good time to note that it’s best*that you try to find the most traction with the highest cold pressure setting.*This means there is more air in the tires,*allowing for less rolling resistance, and opening the door for better ETs. Ofcourse, this ultimately depends on the suspension and chassis of your car. Its also a good idea to speak with other drivers and racers to get feedback on track and lane condition. This can dictate your base cold pressure reading. If the track is sticky, and other drivers are able to hook, it may be beneficial to raise your psi from what you originally were going to set it at. Or vise versa with*poor track conditions.
Shake-down Pass: Once you’ve made sure your cold pressure is set,and the rest of your car checks out okay, its time to make*your first shake-down pass. A common mistake amongst many new comers with slicks is,*once they have established*good tire pressure, they try to launch their cars as hard as possible*in effort to improve their ETs. This can lead to a disasterous situation. even*resulting in a crash at worst. So the point of a shake-down pass is to get aqainted*with the car while running these tires. As i said before, slicks have very different handling and traction characteristics, so the car wont “seem” or “drive” the same as you’re used too.*Its best to resist the urge to*’let all hell break loose’ until you have established a physical experience and understanding of your car’s attitude with slicks.
Once you get to the water box, you might feel a little different, or even nervous. Thats natural, this is your first time trying something new.*An official will guide you to the edge of the water patch, and then signal you to*’light em up.’*If the tires are used, depending on how many passes*are on them, you may have to really heat them up. For safety’s sake, lets assume your using a brand new set of slicks.
Burnout: At this point your burnout should be small, mainly just first gear; and you should start your roll out once you feel the tires “bite.”*Contrary to popular belief, you dont need to “smoke” the heck out of a new set of slicks to “break them in.” Just getting them warm enough to activate the compounds will do just fine. Once the compounds are activated, the tire will bite, and thats your signal to let go of the brake. Exessively smoking the tires can actually*overheat them and cause abnormal wear. So try to get in the habbit of*”feeling” for*the bite. A good rule of thumb with most*slicks is, once you start to see smoke in your mirrors, your good to go. This also will dictate how long you keep a set of slicks, and how often you buy new ones.
Launch: With this being a shake-down pass, your launch should be subtle and*soft. All to often, once again, newcomers*are quick to bounce of the rev-limiter and side-step the clutch (or launch hard on a transbrake) only because they know the tires are designed for that -*in a vain effort to dramatically lower their ETs. This really isn’t a good idea and, while most people*end up on the bright side, some dont.*The best case scenario could be something of this sort: the car*launches hard, tracks straight and the only problem*is your pants are slightly wet from the sudden rush of acceleration. The worst case could be many things: including being overwhelmed by the intense acceleration and losing control of the car, especially if it doesn’t go straight. It’s okay to launch a little harder than you’re used too, but take baby steps. Remember, your safety*comes first. The car will launch much differently with the slicks and will actually make the suspension work, so you should be*alert and ready to make*split decisions. *
Once you have staged*and the green bulb lights up, observe how the car feels upon the launch.*Did it hook? Did it spin?*A little of both? Is it going straight? Be aware of*what the car is doing at this*point and remember it well as it will help*with future adjustments. Its safe to*expect that the car*should, and will launch much better with the slicks than it does with street radials using the same launch routine. If all is well, and your headed straight, keep on it. *
The Pass: Now that the car is moving,*and you’re increasing speed, you should be able to recognize the differences the slicks have compared to standard radials. Its a well known fact that slicks can sometimes “shimmy” or “dance” slighty as speed increases. This is due to the soft sidewalls and the overall soft nature of the tires. The best advice that can be given is not to panic and confuse this with attitude changes due to suspension tuning. If your suspension is even remotely dialed in, the stability issues your experiencing are most likely tire related only. Hold the car straight, and try to resist the urge to “correct” if you feel it dance or shimmy from side to side. Many people have “corrected,” only to realize they didnt need to because the car was tracking straight. This*can cause you to lose control and end up in the wall -*or worse, on your lid. If you feel un-easy or think maybe something is truly wrong, abort the pass and coast to the shut-down area. There’s always another chance and another day.
If you decide the pass is going well so far, keep on it. As you reach the top end, and pass the traps, the tires should have settled by now and the car should be stable atleast. In some cases, with taller slicks, you can experience poor stability throughout the entire pass -*even after you lift the throttle, so maintain control at all times and remember to make very little if any corrections, unless you absolutely*need too.
Evaluation: Returning to your space in the pits, go over in your mind and evaluate the entire routine, from staging to the pass, and remember*how the car acted. If the car launched well, but*still spun quite a bit, you could probably drop the tire pressure down slighty and experiement from there. At this point, you should also*check the tire pressure to get a “hot” reading.*This reading, in most cases, is normally at least 2-3 psi higher than your intitial cold pressure reading. Sometimes, it can be as much as 5 or 6 psi above the cold reading. Regardless of the amount take note of it, as it will help you to remember how the tires acted at that pressure. Its also good to know how*much your tires increase in pressure with your*routine so you can judge how much pressure you need in them when they’re cold. If you think the car’s launch capabilities*would benefit from dropping the pressure, do so. Remember to drop the air pressure in small amounts (1-2 psi at a time) and make another pass. Also keep in mind,that as you lower air pressure you also*decrease the tires stability at high speed, which can make the car more of a chore to drive. It’s a sticky trade off, so be careful. Take note also of how the tires are wearing. Are they wearing evenly? Do they seem to be wearing more on the inside than out? If they are not wearing evenly this could be a suspension related problem, and you should adress it before continuing. Always inspect the condition of your tires after each pass to ensure they remain in good working condition.
Be sure to stay above the safe minimum tire*pressure recommended for the tire, which is normally 10 psi but please don’t take our word for it. Stick with what the tire manufacture suggests. You’ll find that the more you experiment, the more you learn, and the faster you go. Your*first time should be a*memorable and safe experience. Good luck!
© Goblin for Modded Mustangs, 2008. | Permalink | No comment
Add to del.icio.us
Search blogs linking this post with Technorati
Want more on these topics ? Browse the archive of posts filed under Editorials, How-To's, Racing.
*So you have finally realized*its pointless trying to hook your Mustang at the track with cheap (or expensive) street radials, and you have gone the extra mile to purchase to a decent set of racing slicks. Well, great! The amazing performance and traction slicks have to offer*can bring*a smile to any racer’s face. Once the [...]
More...
