M
Mustangcwo
Guest
Many of you will soon find out that I have spent nearly 2K getting my car tuned and it's still not ready for pickup. The problem stems from having to deliver my car to a shop to get work completed. 18months ago I began building my car in preparation for 400rwhp dyno. I'm not certain it will pull that far, but it will be close. Anyways, the first shop installed my heads, upper intake and lower intake.
Stuff done wrong:
1. Loose rocker: dropped a cylinder but did not damage engine, repaired at no cost.
2. Zip tied dipstick in position. :nonono:
3. Timing set to 4deg. :nonono:
Second shop attempted to tune the car and complained that they could not get fuel and air under control due to multiple reasons.
1. MAF 76MM was to small and injectors 30lb, to small. I dont believe that was the case. :nonono:
2. Battery was to small: did not fix the problem.
3. Bad alternator: I found a bent spring in the pickup brushes and corrected in less than 30mins.
Stuff done wrong:
1. Swapped out parts, vice troubleshooting the problem and finding the problem.
Left without a tune and $800 dollars in the hole. $300 SCT chip (that I dont need, I upgraded to tweecer) and $500 in parts as part of a guessing game.
Next shop:
1. Discovered a vacuum leak between the passenger head (cylider 5/6) and upper intake. (Should have been installed properly at the first shop and found at the second shop....I hate incompitent people). Cost to repair $420 labor plus parts.
2. Will begin tuning again tomorrow or Monday at a cost of $465
Oh yeah, did I mention that I purchased a Tweecer: $425.
Now I can go buy a Dyno and tell all the shops to KISS MY A$$!!!!!
Lesson Learned:
1. Do your own work and if you must go to a shop, conduct thorough testing of your car when it returns.
2. Tell your tuner that if he replaces a part and it doesn't solve the problem, you're not paying for the part (do this before the tune begins).
3. Make certain that your tuner is familiar with your make, model and year of your car. Question them as of how many configurations they have tuned that are similiar to yours.
If anyone would like a more detailed version or just the name of the shops....PM me.
Stuff done wrong:
1. Loose rocker: dropped a cylinder but did not damage engine, repaired at no cost.
2. Zip tied dipstick in position. :nonono:
3. Timing set to 4deg. :nonono:
Second shop attempted to tune the car and complained that they could not get fuel and air under control due to multiple reasons.
1. MAF 76MM was to small and injectors 30lb, to small. I dont believe that was the case. :nonono:
2. Battery was to small: did not fix the problem.
3. Bad alternator: I found a bent spring in the pickup brushes and corrected in less than 30mins.
Stuff done wrong:
1. Swapped out parts, vice troubleshooting the problem and finding the problem.
Left without a tune and $800 dollars in the hole. $300 SCT chip (that I dont need, I upgraded to tweecer) and $500 in parts as part of a guessing game.
Next shop:
1. Discovered a vacuum leak between the passenger head (cylider 5/6) and upper intake. (Should have been installed properly at the first shop and found at the second shop....I hate incompitent people). Cost to repair $420 labor plus parts.
2. Will begin tuning again tomorrow or Monday at a cost of $465
Oh yeah, did I mention that I purchased a Tweecer: $425.
Now I can go buy a Dyno and tell all the shops to KISS MY A$$!!!!!
Lesson Learned:
1. Do your own work and if you must go to a shop, conduct thorough testing of your car when it returns.
2. Tell your tuner that if he replaces a part and it doesn't solve the problem, you're not paying for the part (do this before the tune begins).
3. Make certain that your tuner is familiar with your make, model and year of your car. Question them as of how many configurations they have tuned that are similiar to yours.
If anyone would like a more detailed version or just the name of the shops....PM me.
