bad news!!

[yosemiddysam]

Well if the gasket is bad you will know right away. They have markings saying top or bottom and if it is torn you will see it. If it is upside down it should be visible. I almost did that when I did my two valve. if your head is warped they might be able to mill it but you will need a different thickness for the gaskets I believe. I hope for the best for ya man. Did you prep the surface area good and get all the old gasket/gasket maker off? Did you stick the gasket on the block using some sort of rtv? I always use some to keep it in place.

 

[ears]

no no rtv,,, actually, cwo can attest to this, it seems to be the only plae i didnt use rtv!!!LOLOL!!!! but therea are two gasket positioners on the block itself so there is no problem with the spacing of the gasket or where it is, and it can only go in one way with the positioners!!! there are two holes on the gasket itself,, and if its upside down it pushes the gaskets off center so you cant get the bolts into the holes!!! its actually prty cool!!! but at any rate, i know that the gasket is upside right and that the gasket is in great shape,,, or atleast i couldnt see why it wouldnt!!! i had a freind w me, we both set the head on the block together so i could guide it down while he held it up!!! so i cant really even see where the gasket would have bn jacked from in the first place!! the whole head hit the gasket all at the same time, the surfaces were clean adn clear!!! the gasket was thouroughly inspected!!! and the head was lowered very delicately onto the block!!!


hay cwo, do you know of a way to pull the heads w the timing chain cover still on???

 

[yosemiddysam]

Then in that case itr could be a crack some where or one of the bolts stripped or loosened. Either way let me know what ya find!!!

 

[ears]

ill be heartbroken but ill let you know!!! man i hope its somethin stupid easy!!! i dont want to tear down the whole thing!!! i just got it on its feet!!!

 

[Gibs]

you have to torque head bolt in like three stages and it is highly and I mean HIGHLY recommended that you use brand NEW bolts. The old ones get stretched and do not torque correctly 8 out of 10 times.

Had something similar to that on a set of heads......agree new bolts for installs......

 

[Gibs]

You didnt leave the heads setting valve side down on concrete did you?

OK I will play the silly game,.......why not? I am being serious. I think it would be not to mar the face but am not sure.....


Gib

 

[yosemiddysam]

Cold concrete can warp heads. We that is an old timers thing passed on and on. I have never tried it but have never proved it wrong.......

 

[Gibs]

^^^^ seriously? wow I would think that possible if the heads were hot but if they are room temp, I dont know the physics behind that.....LOL

I will believe you though as you know alot more about engines than I....Thanks Yose.

Another thing to add to my "DO NOT DO THIS" list in the garage.....LOL


Gib

 

[ears]

ill probably jack up one side of the motor some time this week and see what i can about those head bolts before i do anything else!! other than that thouhg i cant see why the head would suddenly warp, or why one gasket/ head would be good and the other isnt!! they were both placed the same way when they were being preped and when they were being installed!!! im at a loss!!

 

[orange395w]

heads should be standing upright on their side to prevent warpage. Especially aluminum heads. They will warp easy. Ears when you type long articles learn how to write in paragraphs instead of one big pile of Sh1t!

Now can someone provide a pic of both sides of a modular head please? I'm trying to picture why the hell it matters if the heads aren't torqued right for an oil leak?

As for the porting of the heads.....You have a badass blower why not let the boost work some magic? Porting the heads will lower boost pressure. Save your money, let the blower do it's job.

 

[Gibs]

things happen. When I was re building the top end of the 302 I have, the rocker studs turned out to be turning on us on the final torqueing. Then we decided to get new heads, replaced them, and found a leak. Sort of the same thing as you have....bout half way back on drivers side.....took head off, found the gasket was jacked even though they were brand new.....darn it back to the store to buy another set......replaced again and found that was the issue......fixed, no leaks, but still ticking.......

 

[ears]

wow orange i have never bn pushed away from getting my heads ported before!! i thouhgt it would work out either way though!!! but im not really getting what your saying as far as the oil leak goes!!! if the head has one loose bolt it would let oil seep through its passage ways!! similar to if a valve cover has a loose bolt that part of the valve cover would be extremeley likely to leak!!! retorque the bolt and the cover stops leaking!!!

 

[ears]

well i have no ticking,,,, thank god!!!

 

[Gibs]

yeah..... I was trying to keep from an entire rebuild by replacing the pushrods, lifters, and such......didnt work....the cam was bad.

 

[orange395w]

wow orange i have never bn pushed away from getting my heads ported before!! i thouhgt it would work out either way though!!! but im not really getting what your saying as far as the oil leak goes!!! if the head has one loose bolt it would let oil seep through its passage ways!! similar to if a valve cover has a loose bolt that part of the valve cover would be extremeley likely to leak!!! retorque the bolt and the cover stops leaking!!!

Well on a 5.0 or 5.8 if you have a loose bolt and it leaks, guess what.........? It will leak under the valve cover! The upper head bolts are under the valve covers. That is why I asked for pics of a modular head because it's not making sense to me.

On the head porting did you actually read what I wrote or did you turn your melon off once I said not to?

 

[Gibs]

Orange, I think they mean that if it isnt as tight where that bolt runs down through the head, there is an ability for it to leak through the joint by that bolt.....not around the bolt itself.....


Gib

 

[orange395w]

Orange, I think they mean that if it isnt as tight where that bolt runs down through the head, there is an ability for it to leak through the joint by that bolt.....not around the bolt itself.....


Gib

So then if you can swap out the bolts before pulling the heads I would do that and retorque. Is that possible to do?

 

[Gibs]

If it isnt torqued right, retorqiueing it would possibly throw off the ones around it.......the only way to properly do that would be loosen all of them and retorque the entire thing in order to do the right procedure....as far as I have ever been told.....torque in the right order at the same time and when you take it off, go opposite of the torque down procedure.......I could be wrong though.

 

[ears]

yup!!! very possible!!! but if it ends up bein the gasket then ill be out 50 bucks for bolts!! but im willing to go that rout first!! save some more time and heart ache!!!

and yea orange i read what you wrote,,, i never actually thought about it like that though!!! i alwayse thought that with ported heads air will flow better regardless of blower or not!!! it makes sence though, but honestly i dont see how i would lose anything with it?? at very least yea i may lose a bit of pressure from the blower, but wouldnt it equal itself out because the heads would be ported, thus flow a bit better??? i dont really know so im asking!!

 

[orange395w]

So it is possible then? Can you pull the valve cover and get to all the bolts?