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I'm going solid roller :)

Foxman

Foxman

Well-Known Member
LOL yea i was a little idsapointed in seeing that a 393 stroker was making a littel over 300 to the wheels...

I hear yea... that car needs to run as mean as it looks! I need to look in to my set up more to see if that cam will clear my stock 302 piston valve relieves and work for what i want... looks like it but i need to duoble check.. the solid roller cam is going to be amazing and with todays technology they arent has much of a pain in the ass as they use to be! good luck on running 6's man


the hole point of owning a mustang is to wear out parts and install better ones. and have fun doing it... im just glad you cought this valve issue before it caused any big problems
 
orange395w

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
Yea, the whole reason I went was to get my peak hp & tq numbers, so I could get my shift points. I drove to the dyno in the rain that day with no wipers! lol

If I would have dropped a valve it would have been time for a new engine and heads I presume. :)
 
Foxman

Foxman

Well-Known Member
orange395w said:
Yea, the whole reason I went was to get my peak hp & tq numbers, so I could get my shift points. I drove to the dyno in the rain that day with no wipers! lol

If I would have dropped a valve it would have been time for a new engine and heads I presume. :)
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10 whores!
 
yosemiddysam

yosemiddysam

Well-Known Member
Donator
I might have something for ya when I get back from Japan there Bobby. Dont dig yourself in too big a hole with all the Termi trash talking lol. We will see though....I didnt save up too much money the last time I was there. It is actually pretty expensive over there!
 
orange395w

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
yosemiddysam said:
I might have something for ya when I get back from Japan there Bobby. Dont dig yourself in too big a hole with all the Termi trash talking lol. We will see though....I didnt save up too much money the last time I was there. It is actually pretty expensive over there!
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lol, I was wondering when you would show up. Just remember I like to get Emilio all riled up nothing personal. :)
 
S

Sinful

Well-Known Member
It's going to be expensive to switch over to a solid roller setup, probably over $1000 for good brand named parts; solid lifters, custom solid cam, good valve springs, shims, good retainers and locks. A good set of rockers too if you don't want to end up with a broken rocker at high rpms. and also you may need to shim the new valve springs to get the correct install height and you'll need a tool to do this correctly.

BTW, are you planning on reving the engine past 6500 rpms? if not then why go with a solid roller? When I was doing a solid roller setup it was because the entire engine was made for it; race oriented intake 7000-7500 rpm, forged rotation assembly to zero balance and a 4 bolt main block to handle the high rpms/hp. not to mention you may also need to take into account the rest of the combo such as transmission, stall, gears, if you plan on making power at higher rpm.
 
S

Sinful

Well-Known Member
I would recommend you talk to a cam guy first and have him customize a complete valve train for your current setup. more than likely he'll ground you a hyd roller cam and the correct valve springs for your current setup.

btw your dyno sheet may suggest a tuning issue, it could be weak spark, spark blow by, bad ignition box, rev limiter kicking in too soon, or not getting enough power/ground from its source, timing/spark tune too aggressive at lower rpm but weaker at higher etc. I would look into that first.
 
S

Sinful

Well-Known Member
btw valve float or tired valve springs don't look like this. not to mention a slightly mismatched cam shouldn't even come close to that either. when you experience valve float, at that exact point, the power band drops and it doesn't pick up like yours did as the rpm increases. This happened to me on the turbo setup but of course yours is a different combo and i maybe wrong? imo those waves you get up to 5900 rpms seem to be spark related, the weak mid range power is probably due to the bad timing tune or stall converter/transmission related.

BTW don't trust their dyno too much.

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S

Sinful

Well-Known Member
I say a good tune should give you another 30-50 hp, which will put you in the 430-450rwhp range if it was a manual transmission. i don't think you can ask for more when probably most of your current engine parts are rated at 500 engine hp, not rear wheel.

:)
 
S

Sinful

Well-Known Member
Machman said:
he is at 325 horse... how does 30-50 hp bring him to 430 to 450 whp???
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Do I have to explain everything to you guys in detail? :)

his previous dyno runs with the same motor but with a manual transmission were at over 400rwhp. the automatic transmission swap brought him down to 325rwhp, that's about 15-20% less which is supposed to be normal for the transmission change. now the tuning issue was also there before the transmission swap, so I think he still has another 30-50 rwhp if tuned right which brings him to 430-450 rwhp with a manual transmission, thus 15-20% less with the auto transmission to a total 355-385rwhp.


In respect to the solid roller idea, I don't think there's going to be much gain when the current motor is setup to go no more than 6000rpms.
 
S

Sinful

Well-Known Member
Machman said:
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37659

how can you say valve float would have caused him to loss power sooner, that makes no sense... they float when they float, not show up before the valve floats! he isnt even at 6000 yet and with as much lift he is running i can easily see this being a vlave float problem...
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I personally had this problem, when the valves float because of weak valve springs, the motor stops making power and the power band/graph just drops as the rpm gets higher, just like the dyno sheet in the link you posted. if that guy you used as an example is experiencing valve float, where is that gay curve bobby is talking about at the end of the 5900rpm mark?

btw blown motors tend to float the valves sooner than n/a motors. because the boost pressure in the intake runners from the turbo/sc tends to push down on the valves. at high rpms under boost, the valve springs have a hard time keeping the valves closed, thus causing valve float.
 
orange395w

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
Sinful you make no sense and are even at times contradicting yourself. I'm done explaining stuff to you people. I will just have to show you instead. :)..................................Stand by bench racers I have something for your ass!
 
S

Sinful

Well-Known Member
Orange another thing to consider, correct if I'm wrong but didn't you also heard the light exhaust back fire more than multiple times at almost at the end of the rpm, as if you had hit the rev limiter? this seemed to have happened at exactly the same rpm where it appears to have a problem?

What is the stock rev limit for your computer? Maybe DPR didn't remove the rev limiter option in the SCT chip.
 
S

Sinful

Well-Known Member
orange395w said:
Sinful you make no sense and are even at times contradicting yourself. I'm done explaining stuff to you people. I will just have to show you instead. :)..................................Stand by bench racers I have something for your ass!
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where am I contradicting myself? yes I did suggest a solid roller setup the other day but not if you plan on staying below 6000 rpms. but do what you want. now if you want to take that bitch to 7500 rpms, then now we're talking solid roller.
 
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