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Subzero's car

DrunkFatguy

Well-Known Member
There are a BUNCH of charts! Which one are YOU talking about?:questionmark:
Sorry about not being clear, very first page on the PDF. It points out the expected RWHP numbers with different combinations.The box that is sorta grey and located almost midpoint on the page under the first chart displays a Note about larger Air intake systems and boost.
 

orange395w

OG MEMBER
Staff member
When Bruce tunes a car they weld in a bung before the cat so that AFR would have been pre-cat.

I used to work there so I know this for sure.

Dustin
Pertronix Performance Products.

Apparently not anymore. Danny does not have a bung for a wideband yet. The A/F was read with a sniffer. Apparently I'm the only one speaking directly to Danny.

The tune just looks off. Lean to Rich to lean again.
 

DrunkFatguy

Well-Known Member
Apparently not anymore. Danny does not have a bung for a wideband yet. The A/F was read with a sniffer. Apparently I'm the only one speaking directly to Danny.

The tune just looks off. Lean to Rich to lean again.

I agree on that point, until he gets a wideband installed I'd be carefull with it. Without a rock solid determination on what the A/f ratio is doing, That Bastard murphy could show up and cause all sorta problems.
 

sdsubzero4

Spring Valley, CA
Emilio, I'm going to the Irvine event on Sunday. So, bring your laptop and we'll see what's you come up with.

And yes, I'll be taking it easy until I know for sure what my boost level is at. I'm planning on taking it to another dyno to verify it. Just in case, I did receive the bigger pulley from KB.
 

Mach1Marauder

Well-Known Member
Be careful in first gear Danny. That computer is still fairly slow. If you blow tires hard in first gear, you may bounce it off the rev limiter before the tranny can shift.
 

boostedmach

Well-Known Member
Curious, on an auto do tuners change the shift points where each gear levels out power wise?

On the race tune, in our Lightning, the shift point is a lil lower in the RPM band just for that reason, so when it does "shift" its right at the point where we want it.

And on a side note, Fully Built Autos = :rock:
 

Mach1Marauder

Well-Known Member
On the race tune, in our Lightning, the shift point is a lil lower in the RPM band just for that reason, so when it does "shift" its right at the point where we want it.

And on a side note, Fully Built Autos = :rock:

WIth a auto MACH1 computer, you can command the shift higher and be assured that it will shift at that rpm since it's the fastest of that generation of computers.

While Danny's car is no monster, the tuner will still have to command the computer to shift earlier in prolly first and second gears to have it ACTUALLY SHIFT where he WANTS it to shift. It's not quite as important or drastic of a drop on the upper gears, since the likelihood of blowing the tires off is less and the shifts come up less quick.
 

spdpilot

Well-Known Member
I didn't have time to read the whole thread, so I don't know if you boost situation is resolved yet.

But you are running the same system I am. The 2.1L.

My car had the same problem of running 13 pounds of boost. The kit included a "underdrive" crank pulley. With the SAME pulley on the supercharger..... I can use either the large factory crank pulley, which this combo makes 13 pounds, OR the smaller "underdrive" crank pulley which this combo makes 6 pounds.

Once you decide on which crank pulley, then fine tune your boost with other supercharger pulleys.

I make 6-7 pounds now with underdrive crank pulley. By changing the supercharger pulley's and I can get as high as 9-11 pounds (depending on intake). But if I want to go up higher then 11, I have go back to the larger stock crank pulley.

FYI
 

sdsubzero4

Spring Valley, CA
I didn't have time to read the whole thread, so I don't know if you boost situation is resolved yet.

But you are running the same system I am. The 2.1L.

My car had the same problem of running 13 pounds of boost. The kit included a "underdrive" crank pulley. With the SAME pulley on the supercharger..... I can use either the large factory crank pulley, which this combo makes 13 pounds, OR the smaller "underdrive" crank pulley which this combo makes 6 pounds.

Once you decide on which crank pulley, then fine tune your boost with other supercharger pulleys.

I make 6-7 pounds now with underdrive crank pulley. By changing the supercharger pulley's and I can get as high as 9-11 pounds (depending on intake). But if I want to go up higher then 11, I have go back to the larger stock crank pulley.

FYI

I had my stock crank pulley put back on. So, let me see if I got what you are saying. If I put my underdrive pulley on, I will make less boost, but because I have my stock crank pulley back on, I'm making more boost? Did I read you correctly?
 

Mach1Marauder

Well-Known Member
I had my stock crank pulley put back on. So, let me see if I got what you are saying. If I put my underdrive pulley on, I will make less boost, but because I have my stock crank pulley back on, I'm making more boost? Did I read you correctly?

A larger DRIVER pulley will make a DRIVEN pully spin faster.
 

spdpilot

Well-Known Member
I had my stock crank pulley put back on. So, let me see if I got what you are saying. If I put my underdrive pulley on, I will make less boost, but because I have my stock crank pulley back on, I'm making more boost? Did I read you correctly?

Yes, that is correct. It works the opposite of the Supercharger Pulley. Smaller crank pulley equals less boost. Larger crank pulley equals more boost. In fact, changing the crank pulley has a HUGE effect on boost.

Call Kenne Bell. They may have not thought you needed it with your kit.
 
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